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Silicon/Gold Gears Create New Possibilities!

At Baselworld 2016-Watch and Jewel Show, Breitling, Piaget and Land & Heyne all launched new gears made of silicon or gold, in order to enhance the performance of the movement. What they have in common is the application of DRIE (Deep Reactive Ion Etching) or UV LIGA (Lithographie & Galvanoformung & Abformung) techniques. Breitling selected silicon to fabricate gears so as to reduce energy loss, while Piaget and Lang & Heyne
developed gold gears, not worse than other two brands. Three watch brands created new possibilities in the atomic domain.                                                    Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks® Limited Edition Watch

ULTRA LIGHT-WEIGHT SILICON

Silicon gears aim to improve the performance of Breitling B01 self-winding mechanical chronograph movement, which would later became Breitling Caliber B01 Chronoworks®. In fact, a watch movement is in stopped state in 95% of the time, but it loses the energy every time when we restart it. In order to avoid lower the loss, Breitling adopted silicon to produce three of the most important wheels: center wheel, third wheel and fourth wheel since silion is only half as weighty as ordinary material. These gears are made by DRIE (deep reaction ion etching) process, which makes the whole structure more stable. Most of energy losses occurs in motion of the escapement system, so escape system is another part need to be improved. Silicon lever and escape wheel can reduce the weight of Swiss lever escapement and the inertia in operation effectively. Optimized escape wheel makes the effective utilization rate of barrel kinetic energy increase by 42%.

Breitling Caliber B01 Chronoworks®
Silicon gears

Silicon gears supplied by Siga-Tech Company was connected to untreated steel axle by Breitling self-developed package technique. The combination of steel and silicon means teeth must be shaped precisely in case hard silicon stab into the metal. The application of silicon gears created an industry precedent. Silicon gears and other four innovations (ceramic baseplate and bridges, silicon escape system, variable-inertia balance wheel and seconds pinion with elastic toothing) make power reserve increase by 45%, from 70 hours to 100 hours. Breitling Caliber B01 Chronoworks® movement was passed successfully by Swiss Official Chronometer Control.

Lang & Heyne gold gears

Piaget Calibre 700P

GOLD GEARS
Patek Philippe, Kari Voutilainen and De Bethune have used gold gears in specific movements. Many watch brands laid gold gears aside since the force of machine operation would cause bending deformation of gold after gold is in laser hardened process. 24 K gold gears are made with UV LIGA developed by Mimo-Tec Company. Gold gears (Vickers hardness: 260) is better resistance than brass gears (Vickers hardness: 185), helping improve the performance of the movement. For Piaget, The place of innovation is that Piaget Calibre 700P (Vickers hardness: 220) with pure gold gears and quartz thruster. Piaget Emperador Coussin XL 700P watch launched at Basel world 2016 Fair.

In top watchmaking, small machinery parts also have innovation needs and space. Watch brands improve constantly the performance of watches and movements to prove themselves and create more wonders.

Breitling self-made movements with high efficiency, reliability and high accuracy (B)

Facing the competetive watchmaking market, Breitling has just been proving itself by self-developed movements and products with high performance and good quality. I have introduced Breitling Chronomat 01, Cal. B04, Cal. B05 and Cal. B35 in the previous post. The following content is about the introduction of Breitling other movements.

Breitling B06
Breitling B06 was equipped with 30-second chronograph from 1926’s patent of innovation. It takes only 30 seconds for central timming hand to go around the dial. The timing accuracy extends to 1/8 second. Intermediate stop clock drive chain and chronometer stop clock drive chain were replaced by a part with the best deceleration function. Only Breitling For Bentley B06 watch is equipped with Caliber Breitling B06. Besides, Bentley B06 watch has another global exclusive patented technology-Variable speedometer which can figure out average speed by rotating the bezel freedom from time, distance or speed, a good example of Breitling for Bentley watches. 

Breitling B02/B12
Caliber Breitling B02, which was based on Caliber B01, followed two features of Breitling Cosmonaute watch wron by Major Scott Carpenter in 1962-24-hour display and manual winding. With distinct column wheel timing device, 39 jewels and high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), Caliber Breitling B02 was mounted on New Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute watch which is famous for the first Cosmonaute watch that went to space.

At 2016’s Basel Fair, Breitling launched Caliber B12 with 24-hour military time display. Thanks to self-winding mechanism, the movement supplies inexhaustible power for Breitling Avenger Hurricane watch.

Breitling B14
In 1915, Breitling invented the world’s first independent timing button at two O’clock. In memory of the history of Breitling watchmaking and the milestone, Breitling Transocean 1915 Chronograph watch was launched. To make sure the timing button continue to keep “Start-Stop-zero” operating function, self-made self-winding B14 was developed successfully by Breitling watchmakers and technicists. With three-stage mechanism and double-layer timing control system, “Start-Stop-zero” operating function works well. Thanks to patented double-layer column wheel, the movement can match with many other parts of B01. It has the best reliability and simplifies the after-sales maintenance process.

Breitling 01 Chronoworks®
As the cooperative partner of airline business, Breitling pursues excellent performance of a movement. Breitling was successful in developing Caliber 01 Chronoworks® based on Caliber 01. Excellent performance of Breitling 01 Chronoworks® was improved significantly by five major efficiency-enhancing innovations: ceramic baseplate and bridges, silicon wheels, silicon escape system, variable-inertia balance wheel and seconds pinion with elastic toothing. As a result, its power reserve was enhanced from 70 hours to 100 hours. Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks® Limited Edition watch with Caliber 01 Chronoworks® made its first appearance at 2016’s Basel Fair.

How Does A Breitling Watch With A Tudor Movement Work?

Tudor built its well-known brand by transforming Fluerier or ETA movements in the first few decades. Tudor started to collaborate with Breitling on movement swap in 2017. How Does A Breitling Watch With A Tudor Movement Work? Here I’ll analyze that Tudor MT5612 self-winding movement is transformed into Bretling B20 movement. Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono watch is equipped with Breitling B01 chronograph movement, and Tudor also supplies Tudor MT5612 self-winding movement for Breitling Superocean Heritage diving watch.

Breitling Superocean Heritage diving watch in 1959
Contrast between an old Breitling Superocean Heritage model and a new model

Maybe Breitling Navitimer Chronograph watch wins a high reputation all over the world, but in fact, Breitling Superocean diving watch also has a long history. In addition to Rolex Submariner watch, Omega Seamaster 300 watch, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch, Breitling diving watch took the fourth place at one time. Breitling Superocean diving watch which was launched in 1957 had all characters of modern diving watches, such as the rotating bezel, high visibility with luminous markers and hands, strong water resistance and so on. There is no denying that Breitling Superocean series has less influence on professional diving watch than three other watch brands, which won’t stop its own advantages in the watchmaking. We can collect a recognizable and durable Breitling diving watch at reasonable price at the exclusive store or on the second-hand market. Although Breitling diving watches were equipped with modified ETA movements totally, they were still accurate and certified by Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. Comparing with self-made movements, Breitling Superocean watch was short of some technical features on movement equipment. the biggest shortcoming of ETA general movements is short power reserve for about 40 hours. Breitling changed Tudor MT5612 self-winding movement with B01 movement, helping Breitling solve movement problems completely.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN BREITLING B20 AND TUDOR MT5612 MOVEMENT
Breitling named Breitling B20 movement after Tudor MT5612 movement. Viewing from the public price, Breitling
watch is more expensive than Tudor watch, so Breitling’s processing for MT5612 movement is different from the original model. Due to brand positioning, Tudor MT5612 movement has little decorative polishing, which won’t have any influence on accuracy because of the sealed watch back (except for North Flag). While Breitling polished traditional patterns on B20 movement, obviously B20 movement with Geneva patterns looks more gorgeous than the orininal model. It’s worth noting that B20 movement didn’t use silicon hairspring, so some people question that its anti-magnetic performance isn’t better. In fact, they didn’t make a big difference in the daily life since conventional Ниварокс alloy hairspring achieves certain anti-magnetic ability. With the seal back, it’s beneficial that Breitling used modified B20 movement. 70-hour power reserve enhanced Breitling diving watch. As usual, Breitling B20 movement was certified by Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.

Breitling Superocean watch includes two models-42 mm and 46 mm, available in blue, brown and black. Thanks to Milan watch bracelet, Breitling Superocean watch is comfortable to wear around the wrists. At present, diving watch is very popular. The advantage of Breitling Superocean watch with B20 movement is superior cost performance.

Performance Analysis of Breitling Colt Automatic 44mm Watch

With high reliability and readability like Breitling Chronomat and Navitimer watch, Breitling Colt watch which launched in the 1980s was viewed as a watch intended for the armed forces. Breitling Colt watch’s specified appearance was defined by twenty-four hour-markers aviator-style dial and wider unidirectional rotating bezel. The understated, efficient style of the Colt Automatic perfectly reflects its original vocation, from the appearance to movement. Here we pay attention to Breitling Colt Automatic 44mm Watch.

Similar to Breitling Colt Superocean watch in the mid-1990s, Breitling Colt Automatic watch copied the rotating crown with protective devices on its both sides, aviator-watch-style Arabic numerals and wider unidirectional rotating bezel with four indicators. The satin-brushed bezel feature four rider tabs ensuring optimal protection for sapphire crystal glareproofed both sides. In addition to that, grooved scales and four raised tabs improve the operation of the bezel, it is easy to rotate the bezel even though you’re wearing gloves. Such distinctive design for the crown and the bezel has been Breitling’s feature.

Comparing with 1000 meters water resistant performance of early models, Breitling Colt Automatic watch with 200 meters waterproof depth provides fixed performance. With double insulation back, stainless steel case contributes to keep Colt watch flawless in deep-sea diving. Professional III stainless steel bracelet is equipped with
safety hook and folding clasp, suitable for you in warm or hot weather. Certainly, it’s cool to wear Ocean Racer or Diver Pro rubber band. In cold weather, you had better wear a leather strap, nice and comfortable.

Breitling Colt Automatic watch is equipped with Breitling Caliber 17, a modified version of ETA Caliber 2824-2 which has been officially certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. In testing for movement performance, mainspring winds completely and works for twenty-four hours later, Colt watch almost has any error. It is a second slower around the wrist. This slight delay lasts one day, but the one second deviation falls within the timing tolerance range. It is worth noting that there is a significant difference between the dial up and the crown down after the dial runs for 24 hours. We also noticed the difference in amplitude, which dropped by nearly 60 degrees in the span of a day. To its credit, the average speed didn’t reduce with its influence.

Minute hand and second hand run along track markers, and hour hand runs along twenty-four markers and points to track hour markers. minute hand, hour hand and hour markers are covered with luminescent coating, convenient in the dark environment. Hollowed top of second hand will add to more convenience when we see the time.

In past twenty years, Breitling Colt watch attracted a large number of consumers for firmness, functionality and great readability. With the similar appearance and high performance, new Breitling Colt Automatic 44mm Watch will continue its popularity.

Breitling Transocean 38 Watch Review

When it comes to luxury aviation watches, Breitling is the name which is probably familiar to many people. As for me, I know about the watch brand, but I have never been attracted by any Breitling watch so far. I’m not an aviator, so I pay little attention to aviation-related watches and complicated dials confuse me. It makes me know about the view of the brand’s products again when I saw Breitling Transocean 38 for the first time, so I determine to get one. I want to share my review with you.

SIMPLE DIAL
First, its dial drew my attention. Four dials in different colors are available, but the black is my favorite. I’m often inclined to those dials in light colors, but the reason for choosing the black is simple. With the black dial, polished markers and hands present a striking contrast. I like the perfect match of black and polished steel.
Second, another feature of the dial is that I can get the time clearly. Here again, polished scales and hands with white luminous coating stand out against the black dial. Simple design makes wearers keep their attention focus on the current time on the black background. In my opinion, the only fly in the ointment is the date window. I would rather not have border in the same color as the markers and hands. Without the border, the date window can blend in with the black background.
Finally, with the dial, I do appreciate that the text and branding was kept to a minimum. You’ve got Swiss Made tucked away on the bottom portion of the dial (as we have with many brands), and then, of course, the Breitling logo (in gold tone) in place of the 12 o’clock index, with the brand name below that. Normally, I would call out the appearance of gold in an otherwise silver-toned watch. I again surprised myself by liking it, as it does subtly remind you not only of the brand, but the fact that this is, indeed, intended to be a luxury watch.WOVEN BRACELET
Woven bracelet inherited the aviation theme. In my eyes, it is a more classic choice than the usual three-quarter bracelet, s well as being one that really does not show fingerprints. If the model isn’t your cup of tea, twenty different kinds of watch bracelets are available for you. For the steel woven bracelet, most people think that they adjust the sizing by manner of unclamping the clasp, sliding it along the bracelet to the desired spot, and the latching it back down. But the thicker Breitling bracelet has removable chains like the other solid bracelets.

DIAMETER
Comparing with Breitling Transocean 46 watches, many people worry about Breitling Transocean 38 seems smaller. I think 38 mm dimension is quite appropriate for me. When I’m wearing a suit, I feel the thickness of the watch seems thicker than the actual.

In a word, I like the Breitling watch. As I have mentioned a few times, the Breitling Transocean 38 definitely has a dressier feel to it. That said, the polished steel and mesh bracelet works just fine with jeans.

Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks® is a combination of superior performance and exclusive ‘engine’

Breitling combined the latest materials with advanced high technologies to design Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks®, whose debut was at the Basel fair in 2016. The Limited Edition Breitling watch of 100 pieces sold for $ 39,295, five times more than Breitling ordinary Chronograph. Such high pricing made people wonder why it is worth.

High-tech movement is hard to be hidden in the overall black appearance. Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks® is equipped with Caliber 01 Breitling Chronoworks® inspired by Caliber 01. As asuccessful movement, Breitling Caliber 01, self-winding chronograph movement, is furnished with a column wheel and longitudinal clutch. Its power reserve extends to 70 hours. In order to improve higher performance of Caliber 01, engineers and watchmakers have succeeded in increasing the power reserve from 70 to 100 hours, thanks to five major efficiency-enhancing innovations. The new improved version is Caliber 01 Breitling Chronoworks®.

CERAMIC BASEPLATE AND BRIDGES
In order to reduce the friction coefficient of the axle, baseplate and bridges are made of high-tech ceramics. In fact, this material has been used as an additive in the lubricant of high performance engines, but it is used for advanced watchmaking for the first time. Thanks to the low coefficient of friction, the shaft tip can be placed directly in the holes of the baseplate, without the protection of the ruby holes. Also it can reduce the loss of kinetic energy under
lubricant-free situation. Hence, the total number of ruby alxes has been reduced from 47 to 36.

SILICON WHEELS
In fact, the watch movement is in stopped state in 95% of the time, but it loses the energy every time when we restart it. In order to avoid lower the loss, Breitling adopted silicon to produce three of the most important wheels:
center wheel, third wheel and fourth wheel since silion is only half as weighty as ordinary material. These wheels are made by DRIE (deep reaction ion etching) process, which makes the whole structure more stable.

SILICON ESCAPE SYSTEM
Most of energy losses occurs in motion of the escapement system, so escape system is another part need to be improved. Silicon lever and escape wheel can reduce the weight of Swiss lever escapement and the inertia in operation effectively. Optimized escape wheel makes he effective utilization rate of barrel kinetic energy increase by 42%.

VARIABLE-INERTIA BALANCE WHEEL
Balance wheel combines the nickel ring with the brass spoke to reduce the inertia by thermal variation suppression.
Besides, it is also equiped with four metal weights, aiming at adjusting the accuracy.

SECONDS PINION WITH ELASTIC TOOTHING
Seconds pinion with elastic toothing is another important nerve center in the longitudinal clutch system and timing components. It connects the base to timing components, so that the gear teeth are more attached to the grid. It works in eliminating the friction of traditional springs and improving the transmission efficiency.

Breitling adopted matt ceramic case to show powerful and modern appearance. The operation process of Caliber 01 Breitling Chronoworks® can be seen clearly through transparent back. The design for rubber weaving band borrowed from steel weaving band.